Welcome To Savannah, Y'all!

Remember: "Y'all" is singular. "All y'all" is plural. "All y'all's" is plural possessive!

Welcome to Savannah! First, I must say, what lovely people! A place where despite the shifts in society, the rise and falls of fortunes, and the onslaught of a demanding tourist trade, Savannahians have somehow been able to maintain their style and dignity!

Truly one of my favourite cities in America. Not just because of its beautiful parks, fun nightlife, or the girl at the Dunkin Donuts who went out with me one night, just because she thought I 'talked funny,' but because of the genteel nature of all its residents. Whether it's the local socalite who is determined to show off her 'inheritance' from her late husband, 'My Gawd rest his soul (pronounced as in 'bowl), or the kid who sells newspapers - everyone makes you feel welcome!

Savannah is credited as being America's first planned city. Oglethorpe laid the city out in a series of grids that allowed for wide-open streets intertwined with shady public squares and parks that served as town meeting places and centres of business. Savannah had 24 original squares with 21 still in existence.

During the American Revolution the British took Savannah in 1778, and held it until July, 1782. A land-sea force of French and Americans tried to retake the city in 1779, first by siege and then by direct assault, but failed.

Rich and prosperous, pre-Civil War Savannah was praised by many as the most picturesque and serene city in America, with grand oak trees dripping with Spanish moss and genteel people who exhibit exceptional charm. The Georgia Historical Society was founded in that era and Forsyth Park got its grand ornate, cast-iron fountain in 1858.

In 1819, Savannah made worldwide news as the home port of the steamship S.S. Savannah. The Savannah was the first steam-powered vessel to cross the Atlantic Ocean. She left Savannah on May 22, 1819, and arrived in Liverpool, England twenty-nine days later.

Help on Savannah is Easy. If you need to call ahead about anything, dial 1 877 SAVANNAH! The tourist office will answer any question you have. Within the states the call is toll free.

If you want to save money on parking, you can buy a ‘day pass’ which permits parking anywhere in Savannah for …I think about a fiver…not much more than that. Just ask your host or hotelier.

Of the nearly 80 cemeteries located in Chatham County, you need to visit Bonaventure- which is the origin point for the film, Midnight In The Garden Of Good and Evil. If you liked any part of the film, I’m including a link to the map showing where the homes are and where all the spots are associated with the film. Remember, it’s a true story.

Oh my, I’ve gone on for a few lines and I’ve not mentioned anything about food! What is wrong with me?

There are a couple of ‘Must Do’s’ in Savannah when it comes to food. Forget about the chains. These are the real thing! You need to visit Mrs Wilkes Dining Room! And don’t you DARE decide you’re not going to someone’s home to eat. Trust me! First, just click on the link. You can see what she’s serving a week in advance. Truthfully, the menu rotates as the same each week, except for seasonal differences.

West Jones Street is a boulevard of antique brick houses with curving steps and graceful cast iron banisters. At 10:30 each morning a line begins to form at #107. Although there is no commercial sign outside, the serious student of Roadfood can tell you what is going on. At 11 o'clock, the doors of 107 open and the lunch crowd finds seats at one of the large tables-for-ten shared by strangers. And so begins the daily feast, boarding-house-style.

The tabletops are crowded with platters of fried chicken and cornbread dressing, sweet potato soufflés, black-eyed peas, okra gumbo, corn muffins and biscuits. The menu changes daily so regulars can have something different every day (although you can always count on fried chicken). Mrs. Wilkes stopped taking in boarders in 1965, but her tables demand the vigorous exercise of a boarding house reach.

As at any southern feast worth its cracklin' cornbread, there are constellations of vegetable casseroles: great, gooey, buttery bowls full of squash au gratin and scalloped eggplant, cheese grits, corn pudding, pineapple-flavoured yams topped with melted marshmallows, creamed corn enriched with bacon drippings, green rice (mixed with broccoli and celery); brown rice (with mushrooms and soy sauce); and the low-country legend, Savannah red rice.

When Mrs. Wilkes first started serving meals in this dining room in 1943, there were many similar places in cities throughout the region, where boarders as well as frugal local citizens gathered to enjoy the special pleasure of a meal shared with neighbours and strangers.

And then there's The Pirates House!

The Pirates House is located at one of America's most famous locations. It is the sight of Trustee's Garden, the first experimental garden in America.

Located at 20 East Broad Street, The Pirates House features a range of traditional Southern Meals. One of my favourites is the Fried Chicken coated with pecans! You have to taste it to understand it. They have a vast range of signature dishes from She Crab Soup to Lobster.

I need to warn you, The Pirates House is quite full, plus a few more. The place is genuinely haunted and that does add a bit of intrigue to the location. It’s just off of Bay street, easy to get to, in fact, the trolley buses go past it. High on my list of places to go.

Following the success of the true story of murder, voodoo, and mystery, Clint Eastwood's film, Midnight In The Garden Of Good And Evil boosted Savannah's tourism from a half a million people to over five million people a year. They've dealt with it admirably, in true Southern hospitality.

The character 'Chablis' is real! And you ...if you really feel you must...see 'her' perform at different venues around Savannah.

But for sightseeing, I highly recommend the Savannah Trolley. Pay one price, hop on and off as you desire. At night, it's down to the River Walk, along the river. Be sure to wear flat shoes as the ballast stone from ships coming from England can make the journey down to the riverfront a bit wobbly.

Accommodation:

For starters, here are a few for you to consider:

B&B's

Hamilton Turner Inn

On the famous Lafayette Square park. Historically, this hotel is the talkof the town as it was the house used in the film Midnight In…. Originally it was a 19th century antebellum home for high society. It is highly thought of and the hosts are absolutely lovely people. Food is great too! Keep in mind, they want you to hang around and enjoy the ambiance. Remember, the Americans are different! In Britain, we just want your money and then for you to go away!

The Gastonian

Elegant and quiet. Built in two Italian Renaissance Stucco Mansions.

Savannah B&B Inn

The birthplace of Girl Guides (known as Girl Scouts)

Harbour Inn

On the waterfront along the cobblestone streets

Cheapy Motels:

Days Inn Oglethorpe Mall

About a 10 minute ride from historic downtown Savannah. This motel is clean, comfortable and in a safe area. There is plenty of shopping and dining around the area and things to entertain you. Located across from the Oglethorpe Mall.

EconoLodge Savannah

This is neither downtown or near the shopping mall, however, it does offer economical accommodation.

I have stayed in an EconoLodge before…many, MANY years ago, but I don’t recall that I stayed all night. By no means is this meant to cast aspersions on the hotel…or my girlfriend! (remember, it was decades ago!)

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A great visit is to the Savannah History Museum. It’s located in the original Central of Georgia Railway station. This station is where Southern aristocracy would arrive from Atlanta on a train named the Nancy Hanks, named after the famous race horse.

The centre features an 18 minute film on Savannah’s history, has interesting artefacts, including some from America’s railways and is a point on the savannah trolley tour.

If you are of the mind, it might be a convenient place to do ‘bird-girl’ shopping. Also, if you’ve driven here, this is a good place to leave your car for the day. It’s secure and there’s plenty of parking.

The station is located at: 303 Martin Luther King, Jr. Blvd. Before you print all this off, please have a look at their website.



Oh no, I'm on to food again! Yessiree!

Try a drive out to Tybee Island. It’s a lovely drive; you’ll see some of the antebellum homes and you can use it as an excuse to try a crab boil or popcorn shrimp from Teeples Seafood Restaurant: 2917 River drive, (the same as State Road SR80). in beautiful downtown Thunderbolt! (there is no downtown!) This little restaurant has been in business since the 1930’s and is famous more as a local shrimping village. The shrimp come directly off the boats in the back of the restaurant! Again, it’s a great way to add a few stone. This is another ‘cheap and cheerful’ place to eat. The cruddier you’re dressed, the more appropriate you are! Hey, try a ‘peel and toss’ bucket ‘o’ shrimp. I would!

Savannah has so much to offer; I could write a book! Do something different! Go on one of the evening ghost tours. Go see Forrest Gump's bench where he offered Mama's homespun logic. Walk through the parks, do the river-front. Try a Paddle Wheeler trip. But most of all have fun!

I hope you fall in love with the people the way I did!

Y'all Come Back Now, Ya Heah? Back To Florida

The Georgia Police historically were quite hospitable when it came to people from ‘out of town.’ They would kindly escort you to the county border and ‘drop’ you off, with a choice of admonishments; either ‘Y’all come back, ya hear?’ Or ‘The next time you come here, you’re leaving in a body bag!’ Today, things have changed greatly. (they no longer use body bags.)

I want you to see the parts of Georgia and Florida tourists never see. It’s lovely and the people are endearing. I must admit I’m a bit concerned about my fellow Brit's ability to overcome the accents, but just remember, they're having as much difficulty with you!

One of the South’s most famous authors is Joel Chandler Harris. He wrote the books of Uncle Remus and Bre’r Rabbit. If you can get a copy and study it on the plane over, I have no doubt you’ll be able to understand everyone. There'a actually a formula to it all. As I recall’ the first consonant is ignored in any word.

For example: The city of Atlanta is pronounced ‘A’lana.’ (well, heck, they dropped the second consonant as well…those crafty linguists!). But then, as I reflect, they became more pragmatic about the whole thing and decided ‘since we don’t need all those consonants, why not throw out a few of them (pronounced ‘Dem’), silly ole me, (notice that I dropped the ‘D’), vowels as well! So, now, Atlanta is pronounced ‘Lana.’ See how much sense it all makes?

There is also another language spoken by a group of Americans called Ebonics. Thankfully, there is a translation guide provided for this. I do wish you luck. I still can't figure it out.

And then there’s the ‘relaxed’ version of English. This is described as an attempt to speak the language without having to exercise too much effort in moving your lips. (after all…it is the sleepy south, innit?) Catching on? So if someone says ‘You tain wichoo?’ What they’re asking is: Madam, may I enquire please, do you intend to take this with you today? Don’t worry, you’ll catch on. Or you can have a fly in visit with a local doctor to get some sedating medication which will make you talk the same way they do!

My oh my, look at that ! Five entire paragraphs and not a single mention of food! What has happened to me!

The red light IS ON! Stand clear of the crowds! America’s favourite…no the world’s favourite donut shop is Krispy Kreme! And when the red light is on, it means the donuts are literally rolling off the conveyor! As they come out of the fryer, there’s a machine to bless them with warm sugar icing. Sinful? You bet!

As you drive out of Savannah, towards I-95, on the right, there is a Kripsy Kreme. They’re in all the famous places and you may see boxes of Krispy Kreme in stores and shops. But the best way to enjoy them is from conveyor to mouth. Krispy Kreme have about 20 varieties. Our favourite is the white cream filled and covered with chocolate. Or, the conveyor version. I used to stand and watch the girl fill the donuts with jam for hours…or at least until she got off duty and would go somewhere with me. Nothing like a cream filled tart to start your day! (again, we're talking decades ago...just needed to get that point across, please!)

Oh yes, leaving Savannah: I’d prefer you not take the Highways. Stay on the old roads, in this case 301, (of which Abercorn becomes). However, you will have to get on Interstate 95 to head down to the Florida State line. Take I-95 South to the town of Yulee. Exit at Yulee onto 301 South. From there, it’s a straight journey almost all the way to Homosassa. I can’t tell you about specific sights because it is not tourist orientated. What I think you will enjoy is seeing a part of the world where time has slowed down. I’d say if you use your camera, take photos of things that are out of the ordinary. My guess is that if you stop at some of the oldest petrol stations (called gas stations), you may still find three sets of toilets: Ladies, Gentlemen, and Coloured! I wish I were kidding.

Some history about the highway system.

I can promise you no Americans know this. The highway system is actually legally called the NDHS. (National Defense Highway System). It was created by President Eisenhower for the purpose of transporting large troop movements and evacuating cities. The system was designed in such a way that traffic could be directed in one singular direction on all lanes at all times.

As the system developed, it was a requirement that within every fifteen miles, there be a straight and level stretch of at least 1.5 miles. This is for the purpose of being able to land the largest of military aircraft types, anywhere in America.

Heading South on I-95 towards the Florida border, exit at Yulee (as I said). You will continue south on SR200 and US 301 towards Gainesville, Florida.

Fill in your own blanks between Yulee and Homosassa. I will include a side-trip to Ichetucknee Springs, my most favourite place to ride inner tubes down the river.

A Florida State Park, Homosassa Springs is truly unique, featuring a wide variety of native wildlife, including the endangered manatees, and a myriad of fresh and saltwater fish in a first-magnitude spring. A floating observatory allows visitors an underwater view of the spring with its resident manatees and the hundreds of fish who are free to come and go. The water is crystal clear and you can swim with the Manatee, or view them from an underwater viewing tank, that is built into the river. (who knows Jane, some people may want their photos taken with you!)

A recently completed Wildlife Walk leads you on an elevated boardwalk through habitats for Florida Black Bears, cougars, bobcats, river otters, grey fox and red fox and much more. Birds of prey, wading birds, and waterfowl also pose for photographers strolling through the Wildlife Walk. A reptile exhibit features many of Florida's reptiles, both venomous and non-venomous. Homosassa Springs Wildlife State Park is also one of only five places where you can see a Whooping Crane up close, and one of only two places that have wild deer.

If you’re becoming tired of staying in motels, how about staying in a cottage?

There are lots of inexpensive cabins and chalets, some located right on the water where you can watch manatee swim by! Some chalets have pontoon boats included in the rate. Or you might wish to hire an outboard for the day.

This is one of my favourite areas of Florida to visit, where it makes no difference how you dress or whether you shave or not!

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Riverside Resorts has been one of my favourite places to stay. (don't think of the word 'resort' meaning anything fancy!) Again, there is nothing pretentious about the place at all. It’s cheap and cheerful. However, I can’t tell you what has happened since the horrible hurricanes 2 years ago. But I’d highly recommend staying here. It’s right on the river, the Riverside Crab House is one of my favourite places to eat low-country cooking, especially Florida Lobster, Crab and shrimp. Have a look at the Menu!

See how I sneaked food in again! Riverside Crab House! Located right on the Homosassa River at the Riverside Resort. By now, I hope you will have appreciated my dining recommendations and decided I’ve gotten it right! Have a look at the menu and photos of the hotel. Also, room rates here are as low as $55 a night…maybe less!

Ichetucknee Springs (Prounounced 'Ish-tut-ney')

The crystalline Ichetucknee River flows six miles through shaded hammocks and wetlands before it joins the Santa Fe River. In 1972, the headspring of the river was declared a National Natural Landmark by the U. S. Department of the Interior. From the end of May until early September, tubing down the river is the premier activity in the area.

Tubes, snorkelling and diving equipment can be hired from private vendors outside the park. Located four miles northwest of Fort White on SR47 and 238. If you have young people with you, it can be better than Disney!

Jekyll Island-Sea Island-St Simons

Jekyll Island and Sea Island are part of a timeless world, steeped in tradition and surrounded by pristine beauty. With a history that's just as rich and varied as the land it shares. Its heritage actually originates with the humblest of beginnings: a Quaker family on an Ohio farm. Howard Coffin, Sea Island's founder, started life on that farm, a boy of simple background, but with a magnificently imaginative mind. It was he who turned these islands into a playing ground for the world’s wealthiest.

Over time the surrounding islands were no longer used for hunting and were sold off as property development. But he retained Sea Island as a special gem for his friends. Today, the Cloister at Sea Island was rated as the number one resort in America. It also originated as a ‘restricted’ resort. During my childhood the waiters used to deliver meals to us at our cottage by balancing the meals on their heads as they rode their bicycles.

In the main dining room, today, finger bowls, a full compliment of silver table settings and fine china are used. Ladies wear dresses and gentlemen wear jackets and ties in the evening. In the summer months full orchestra dancing is offered on the terrace by the sea.

Mr Coffin recognised that there was a group of people who preferred less lavish experiences and encouraged property developers to build a limited number of hotels on the adjoining islands, thus, between St Simon’s and Jekyll, there are a number of lovely as well as more economical hotels.

The island is covered with live oaks, Spanish moss, and palmetto. Criss-crossing the island is over 20 miles of bicycling and walking paths. You can always find a peaceful spot on the beach. Few locals come over to Jekyll from nearby Brunswick because of the fees charged to all cars entering the island. There are sfew year-round residents but many investment property owners who have held their homes for generations. This is definitely NOT a place to visit if you are looking for nightlife!

It’s a lovely climate and nature's panorama of ocean, waterways, marsh and woodlands define life on Sea Island.

I need to warn you about Jelly-fish. They’re abundant this time of year, so just be aware, should you decide to swim in the ocean!

Don’t be shy to go to the Cloister. It is truly magnificent and worth having a walk around. No one will challenge you and I’d encourage you to take photos. This coastal area is one of the vanishing vistas of the United States.

The Cloister offers their Sea Island tradition; the Plantation Supper, which is a Definitely a unique experience. It is a casual mix of Southern "comfort" food, such as local shrimp, crispy fried chicken, pork barbecue, chocolate cake and fruit cobbler, with bluegrass music and the soulful sounds of gospel singers. They use a ‘Jeep Train’ to carry you out into the grassland forest, surrounded by old oak trees with hanging moss. It’s a wonderful experience on a warm evening. Food is prepared outdoors and with the combination of music and good food, you are guaranteed never to forget the experience.

You didn't think I'd get in a few paragraphs without writing something about food, did you?!

Fort George-Amelia Island & On to Georgia!

As you exit the Mayport Ferry turn right. (You’re still on A1A) You’re now in Ft. George: you’ll find tucked away on the tiny barrier island, Kingsley Plantation, one of the most historic sites in all of Northeast Florida. The plantation house, the oldest remaining plantation home in Florida, sits at the far end of the island overlooking the lazy Ft. George River. Not far from the main house are the remains of 23 slave cabins.

To access Kingsley Plantation, there is a road that goes off to the left, approximately 2-3 miles past the ferry. The last time I was there it was unmarked, but I suspect it is today. There is an old golf resort back there that was closed down, but it’s still worth a visit. It’s a traditional southern Spanish home.

Ft. George Island is acclaimed for its care of sick and injured pelicans, eagles, osprey and other feathered friends, called BEAKS.

Not far from B.E.A.K.S. are two of the region's most treasured natural areas. Big Talbot and Little Talbot Islands. Acquired by the state as a wetlands nature preserve, Big Talbot features a near-pristine beach and miles of nature trails to explore. Little Talbot offers miles of white sand beaches ideal for walking and picnicking, as well as hiking trails and camping sites. Visitors may also rent canoes, bikes and other recreational equipment at the park.

You’re travelling towards Amelia Island and Fernandina Beach. (again, still on A1A). Find a place to ‘hang out.’ Amelia Island is rated as one of the top ten beaches in America.

Continue on A1A (north), and follow signs to Interstate 95 North. It is now time to leave Florida and move into Georgia. You will need to do this via the Interstate.

As you cross the state line there will be the Georgia Visitor’s Centre on the right. If you exit there you can pick up a beautiful free map of the State of Georgia and collect information from the staff who work there to answer tourist queries.

As you leave Amelia Island you will follow signs for US North 17. This is another major road that heads north and south and was the key route for people coming from the north fifty years ago, before the interstate was built.

US17 North will take you directly to I-95. Travel approximately 30 miles North and exit onto US North 17, EXIT number 29, to Brunswick, Sea Island, Jekyll Island and St Simons Island. Hungry? There’s a Cracker Barrel on the west side of the highway!

Travel about 5 miles north on 17, then make a sharp right onto GA-520 E (which is like a ‘B’ road. Travel about 6 ½ miles and turn left onto Beachview Drive, which is also GA-50 (as in Georgia 50…another ‘B’ type road.)

Hey, you’re in America, which means I’ve not talked about the ‘F’ word enough…more Food! Yes, it’s the pastime and foretime of America.

If the Cracker Barrel doesn’t appeal to you, it’s now time for me to introduce you to the Waffle House. Yep, they’re as easy to find as a cockroach in Georgia! Waffle houses serve as a barometer of American lives. They’re literally intriguing!

Also, it is again important for me to remind you that just because it’s called Waffle House, it don’t mean they sell waffles! (well, actually they do, but that's not their mainstream item). Just think of the conundrum - you can’t buy ice at Iceland at home…kind of the same thought process.

Waffle houses are a chain group, but each Waffle house is run by local residents. It has a unique history and if I’m correct they still do not have locks on their doors because they’re open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.

I'll provide you with a link to the Waffle House because their menu is so vast, just as is their funny little history. Here's a way to help you understand what a Waffle House is: Take a Little Chef, give its staff a personality (please), create food that actually has flavour, and variety, and economical prices, and then add just a dash of local character and a juke box that plays Elvis songs along with such all time hits as Thank God and Greyhound She’s Gone, or I’d Love to Marry My Horse, but I can’t afford a Bridle Suite, and you’ve hit Waffle Houses on the nail. Oh, and did I forget to mention…the food is actually quite good!

Have a hamburger…no, have scrambled eggs with ‘scattered’ hash browns…(that’s different!), or a bowl of grits with bacon crushed up in it…oh..and if you really must…have a pecan waffle! (My daughter says they look life waffles with little cockroaches in them!)

But best of all, watch and listen to the people!

Ponte Vedra-Jacksonville Beach-Mayport

Jacksonville Beach has tonnes of motels and places to visit. The street numbers start at First Street, which is the seafront, and the higher they go – the closer you get to the Intracostal waterway.

There’s a great little B&B called the Pelican, located right on the ocean-front at Jacksonville Beach. I highly recommend it as an option! Have a look at their website and hang on to their telephone number! Don't assume the rates from the website are written in stone, rates do vary depending on dates. Perhaps you will take advantage of the current currency exchange rates, buy a piece of property in America and set up your own B&B!

Along 'Jax' Beach, at the south end of the boardwalk stands the historic American Red Cross Life Saving Station, erected in 1947. The watchtower serves as the central headquarters for the 100-member volunteer life saving corps. A little further down the shore, between 5th and 6th avenues, is the 1,200 foot long Jacksonville Beach Pier, a popular spot for anglers that features a rustic restaurant.

As you come into Jacksonville Beach on A1A (now called Third Street) the first major intersection you encounter will be Beach Blvd.

For a bit of sightseeing and possible a meal, turn LEFT and continue out about 3 miles. On the left is a restaurant called: 'The Homestead' (Chicken Dinners). It’s at 1712 Beach Boulevard, Jacksonville Beach, FL 32250, 904-249-9660. This is one of Jacksonville Beach’s old landmarks. The restaurant is located in a cozy (comfortable) log cabin and served old-fashioned, Southern dishes nightly for dinner. They also serve a brunch on Sundays. It’s cheap and cheerful and indicative of typical Southern Cooking.

Just past The Homestead there is an entertainment complex on the left with go-cart rides, alligators, and stuff along self-entertainment. Just past the complex is the Intracostal Waterway. You will notice it by the large bridge. This is the inland waterway system that runs three thousand miles, from New England to Miami, so that boats and small ships can travel safely inland. Occasionally, submarines have been known to surface in the intracoastal, but they ‘claim’ they can’t travel there…a load of rubbish!

If you were to continue on this road (Beach Blvd) West, you would eventually end up in the City of Jacksonville. Don’t. Just as a matter of trivia: Jacksonville is the largest city in the world (measured by land mass).

Turn around, go back to Third Street, turn left and continue until the road ends, which is Atlantic Blvd. Turn left on Atlantic. (This road also goes over the Intracoastal and eventually into Jacksonville.) If you’re interested in sightseeing, you could continue on this road for about 20-30 minutes and you would come upon a massive shopping centre on the right. And if you were to continue past that, you’d come to an extremely high bridge crossing the St John’s River, then coming into Jacksonville and eventually feeding into Interstate 95 heading northwards.

I only mention this, just in case, for some reason, the Mayport ferry isn’t running. It always operates, but Never say Never!

Anyhoo…From Third Street, turn left onto Atlantic Blvd. Don't forget about the Famous Amos Restaurant being almost immediately on the right. (highly recommended for traditional southern cooking and funny accents!) Head West about 2 miles. There is a Days Inn on the left and just past that is the road to ‘Mayport Naval Station' Also, use THIS LINK to see another map of the area, including where the Ferry goes. It will help you with your bearings.

Follow the signs to Mayport. Mayport is the Southern United States strategic nuclear warship and aircraft carrier defense port. If you're interested, I believe you are still able to drive onto the base for a tour. Pacifist that I am, I've never done it...willingly. :-)

You’ll travel about 2-3 miles and on the left there will be a sign to the Mayport Ferry. Turn left there. It will be a meandering road that will eventually end at the Mayport Lighthouse and the Ferry. Depending on the time of day, the ferries operate every thirty minutes. The fare is just a couple of bucks and will take you to Fort George. When you come off of the ferry, you will turn RIGHT.

The Mayport lighthouse is located at the Mayport Ferry and is a popular destination for artists. As you pull up to the Ferry, the light house is at approximately 4 o'clock.

Keep in mind that you are actually still following the original Highway A1A throughout!!

Starting to miss English food? Tough! You ain’t gonna find it anywhere in Florida! But you can get some half-decent fish & chips at Long John Silvers on Atlantic Blvd, on Atlantic Beach and throughout Florida and Georgia. Sorry, it’s the best I can offer.

St Augustine To Ponte Vedra Beach

As you leave St Augustine, continue to follow signs northwards along A1A. To see some of the most scenic parts of northern Florida you will need to follow the coast to Ponte vedra and Sawgrass.

It isn't far from St Augustine to the Mayport Ferry, which is just past Jacksonville Beach and Atlantic Beach. There is an inexpensive Days Inn on Neptune Beach, or you might want one closer to Mayport. But please do not expect anything of luxury. It will be strictly basic accommodations.

About 10 miles past St Augustine you will follow the Atlantic Ocean. On your right will be sand hills and to your left will be rolling sand hills as well. Every few miles you will notice a wooden walkway bridge that carries you over the sand mounds directly to the ocean. It's a great place to stop and enjoy. If you continue on up to Jacksonville beach you might prefer to stay overnight there and then drive back, or simply go to Jacksonville Beach to enjoy it...but it may be slightly crowded, depending on the weather.

As you continue north on A1A, there will be a road that goes off to the right that says Ponte Vedra. Continue there. Ponte Vedra is a posh snob community and it's worth a drive through to see the homes. Also, you will see the condominiums and homes in the Sawgrass community, which is a notch down from Ponte Vedra. The Ponte Vedra Inn and Country Club is one of the resorts of America that was 'restricted' meaning it refused entry to blacks and Jews. You had to be a WASP (White Anglo-Saxon Protestant) plus several million in your handbag to belong.

Just for entertainment purposes, don't be afraid to park in the car park of the Ponte Vedra Inn, on the left, and go inside to use the toilet. It IS beautiful inside and you can always say you were there and left something behind!

Jacksonville Beach was a popular seaside resort up until the 50's when it was destroyed by a hurricane. There was a large amusement park Ferris Wheel, roller coaster, etc. I know the city has worked hard to restore it.

There are literally dozens of small independent hotels along the ocean front at Jacksonville Beach. You might want to 'wing it' in finding a room there. One thing is certain, with as big a place as Jacksonville is, you will always be able to find a room. (but I'm not sending you into Jacksonville...it's a 30 minute ride to the city!)

OK, Directions:

Leaving Ponte Vedra...you will know you have left because the manicured golf course and the multi-million dollar homes will be gone.

The Ponte Vedra Road leads to 3rd street on Jacksonville Beach. Turn Right there. I think it will also be marked as A1A as well, as all you've done is taken a slight deviation. (there's an Episcopal Church at the corner of A1A (3rd Street) and the Ponte Vedra Road.

Continue north. You will see a 'Publix' Supermarket on the left and you might begin to see a few motels along the way on either side of the road. Each avenue you cross will begin to decrease...14th South, 13th South, etc. When you run out of Avenues, you will be at a large intersection (Beach Blvd.). Turn right there, go to 1st Street, turn left and continue North. There are more hotels along , just after you pass the town centre.

The Avenue numbers will begin to increase again...but read as 1st Ave North, 2nd Ave north, etc.

If you dont' see anything you like, go back up to 3rd street and turn right...(North) and continue North until you run out of road (Atlantic Blvd.)

Turn Left on Atlantic Blvd.

Immediately to your right is a restaurant called: FAMOUS AMOS.

It's a come as you are Family Restaurant serving country breakfasts, fried catfish, ( a southern favourite), fresh eggs, grits, sausages, and fantastic lunches. It's true country dining at it's beast and it's dirt cheap!

OK, away from food again...continue along Atlantic Blvd. About 2 miles down on the right is another motel, which as I recall is a Days Inn...it should be cheap as chips there AND it's almost precisely where you need to turn off to go to the Mayport Ferry.

Along Jacksonville Beach, Neptune Beach, and Atlantic Beach, there is free and open access to the beachfront. You will not be able to access the beachfront at Ponte Vedra. (Noblesse oblige!) The photo to the right is indicative of a typical beach access for the public.

Have a look at this Days Inn!

Toddle Down To Tampa

Homosassa is only 75 miles north of Tampa Airport

And whilst you might be nearing the end of your journey, I do hope you’ve had a great time!

It would be impossible for me to end this without having one more rant about…you guessed it…food!

Tampa is proud to boast that it has one of America’s finest steak houses. That’s a BIG boast for a nation of 125 million people!

From outside it looks like a rickety old factory, but Bern’s is one of America’s most famous: Since 1956 Bern’s Steak House has provided thousands of guests with a world-class dining experience based on Bern Laxer’s belief that the ‘guest must always come back.’ He has done well! Oh yes, hic, they have a 90,000 bottle wine cellar! (burp)

OK, enough….if you want to slum it again, don’t forget your first experience at Denny’s!

And there are several other chains you could try: they're not up to my obsessive great-food standards...but everyone seems to like them...Chili's (which is more or less a tex-mex concoction). The Outback Steak House...which is what it says it is...the steaks are great, but even my colon can't handle steaks that large!. Oh, and if you're around Tampa, do try Bob Evan's Farm Restaurant. It's lovely...kind of a mix between Dennys and Cracker Barrel. Oh yes, and definately Sonny's Real Pit Barbeque!

I have nothing bad to say about Tampa, or St Petersburg…at all! Both lovely cities. You can find more or less economical accommodation near Busch Gardens, if you wish. And don’t forget, there’s a Red Lobster located very close to the airport (there he goes with the food again already! Oi Vey!!)

By the way, if you can’t find a Krispy Kreme donut shop, try Dunkin Donuts! Enough!

Taking your car back to Hertz:

As you approach the airport, follow the signs for ‘RENTAL RETURNS.’ As you enter the Hertz garage, there will be a humanoid who will note your mileage and petrol levels. Be sure to fill the car BEFORE returning the car or you will be charged up to $8.00 a gallon! (about the same as here then!).

The humanoid (you’ll understand why I don’t say ‘person’), will print out a small computerised slip as your receipt. Make certain you leave the keys in the ignition! You do not need to see anyone now. Go directly to the Hertz Coach, which will take you to the airport terminal.

Checking in for your flight:

They will already know it, but you may as well state that you’re travelling through to London. You will need to present your passport at check-in.

Keep in mind that this is ticketless travel. You only need to remember your name and destination. (that doesn’t always work for some!)

If this helped, try visiting my:

The Official Boston Stopover Site