Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Welcome To Savannah, Y'all!

Remember: "Y'all" is singular. "All y'all" is plural. "All y'all's" is plural possessive!

Welcome to Savannah! First, I must say, what lovely people! A place where despite the shifts in society, the rise and falls of fortunes, and the onslaught of a demanding tourist trade, Savannahians have somehow been able to maintain their style and dignity!

Truly one of my favourite cities in America. Not just because of its beautiful parks, fun nightlife, or the girl at the Dunkin Donuts who went out with me one night, just because she thought I 'talked funny,' but because of the genteel nature of all its residents. Whether it's the local socalite who is determined to show off her 'inheritance' from her late husband, 'My Gawd rest his soul (pronounced as in 'bowl), or the kid who sells newspapers - everyone makes you feel welcome!

Savannah is credited as being America's first planned city. Oglethorpe laid the city out in a series of grids that allowed for wide-open streets intertwined with shady public squares and parks that served as town meeting places and centres of business. Savannah had 24 original squares with 21 still in existence.


During the American Revolution the British took Savannah in 1778, and held it until July, 1782. A land-sea force of French and Americans tried to retake the city in 1779, first by siege and then by direct assault, but failed.

Rich and prosperous, pre-Civil War Savannah was praised by many as the most picturesque and serene city in America, with grand oak trees dripping with Spanish moss and genteel people who exhibit exceptional charm. The Georgia Historical Society was founded in that era and Forsyth Park got its grand ornate, cast-iron fountain in 1858.

In 1819, Savannah made worldwide news as the home port of the steamship S.S. Savannah. The Savannah was the first steam-powered vessel to cross the Atlantic Ocean. She left Savannah on May 22, 1819, and arrived in Liverpool, England twenty-nine days later.

Help on Savannah is Easy. If you need to call ahead about anything, dial 1 877 SAVANNAH! The tourist office will answer any question you have. Within the states the call is toll free.

If you want to save money on parking, you can buy a ‘day pass’ which permits parking anywhere in Savannah for …I think about a fiver…not much more than that. Just ask your host or hotelier.

Of the nearly 80 cemeteries located in Chatham County, you need to visit Bonaventure- which is the origin point for the film, Midnight In The Garden Of Good and Evil. If you liked any part of the film, I’m including a link to the map showing where the homes are and where all the spots are associated with the film. Remember, it’s a true story.

Oh my, I’ve gone on for a few lines and I’ve not mentioned anything about food! What is wrong with me?

There are a couple of ‘Must Do’s’ in Savannah when it comes to food. Forget about the chains. These are the real thing! You need to visit Mrs Wilkes Dining Room! And don’t you DARE decide you’re not going to someone’s home to eat. Trust me! First, just click on the link. You can see what she’s serving a week in advance. Truthfully, the menu rotates as the same each week, except for seasonal differences.

West Jones Street is a boulevard of antique brick houses with curving steps and graceful cast iron banisters. At 10:30 each morning a line begins to form at #107. Although there is no commercial sign outside, the serious student of Roadfood can tell you what is going on. At 11 o'clock, the doors of 107 open and the lunch crowd finds seats at one of the large tables-for-ten shared by strangers. And so begins the daily feast, boarding-house-style.

The tabletops are crowded with platters of fried chicken and cornbread dressing, sweet potato soufflés, black-eyed peas, okra gumbo, corn muffins and biscuits. The menu changes daily so regulars can have something different every day (although you can always count on fried chicken). Mrs. Wilkes stopped taking in boarders in 1965, but her tables demand the vigorous exercise of a boarding house reach.

As at any southern feast worth its cracklin' cornbread, there are constellations of vegetable casseroles: great, gooey, buttery bowls full of squash au gratin and scalloped eggplant, cheese grits, corn pudding, pineapple-flavoured yams topped with melted marshmallows, creamed corn enriched with bacon drippings, green rice (mixed with broccoli and celery); brown rice (with mushrooms and soy sauce); and the low-country legend, Savannah red rice.

When Mrs. Wilkes first started serving meals in this dining room in 1943, there were many similar places in cities throughout the region, where boarders as well as frugal local citizens gathered to enjoy the special pleasure of a meal shared with neighbours and strangers.

And then there's The Pirates House!

The Pirates House is located at one of America's most famous locations. It is the sight of Trustee's Garden, the first experimental garden in America.

Located at 20 East Broad Street, The Pirates House features a range of traditional Southern Meals. One of my favourites is the Fried Chicken coated with pecans! You have to taste it to understand it. They have a vast range of signature dishes from She Crab Soup to Lobster.

I need to warn you, The Pirates House is quite full, plus a few more. The place is genuinely haunted and that does add a bit of intrigue to the location. It’s just off of Bay street, easy to get to, in fact, the trolley buses go past it. High on my list of places to go.

Following the success of the true story of murder, voodoo, and mystery, Clint Eastwood's film, Midnight In The Garden Of Good And Evil boosted Savannah's tourism from a half a million people to over five million people a year. They've dealt with it admirably, in true Southern hospitality.

The character 'Chablis' is real! And you ...if you really feel you must...see 'her' perform at different venues around Savannah.

But for sightseeing, I highly recommend the Savannah Trolley. Pay one price, hop on and off as you desire. At night, it's down to the River Walk, along the river. Be sure to wear flat shoes as the ballast stone from ships coming from England can make the journey down to the riverfront a bit wobbly.


Accommodation:

For starters, here are a few for you to consider:

B&B's

Hamilton Turner Inn

On the famous Lafayette Square park. Historically, this hotel is the talkof the town as it was the house used in the film Midnight In…. Originally it was a 19th century antebellum home for high society. It is highly thought of and the hosts are absolutely lovely people. Food is great too! Keep in mind, they want you to hang around and enjoy the ambiance. Remember, the Americans are different! In Britain, we just want your money and then for you to go away!

The Gastonian

Elegant and quiet. Built in two Italian Renaissance Stucco Mansions.

Savannah B&B Inn

The birthplace of Girl Guides (known as Girl Scouts)

Harbour Inn

On the waterfront along the cobblestone streets

Cheapy Motels:

Days Inn Oglethorpe Mall

About a 10 minute ride from historic downtown Savannah. This motel is clean, comfortable and in a safe area. There is plenty of shopping and dining around the area and things to entertain you. Located across from the Oglethorpe Mall.

EconoLodge Savannah

This is neither downtown or near the shopping mall, however, it does offer economical accommodation.

I have stayed in an EconoLodge before…many, MANY years ago, but I don’t recall that I stayed all night. By no means is this meant to cast aspersions on the hotel…or my girlfriend! (remember, it was decades ago!)

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A great visit is to the Savannah History Museum. It’s located in the original Central of Georgia Railway station. This station is where Southern aristocracy would arrive from Atlanta on a train named the Nancy Hanks, named after the famous race horse.

The centre features an 18 minute film on Savannah’s history, has interesting artefacts, including some from America’s railways and is a point on the savannah trolley tour.

If you are of the mind, it might be a convenient place to do ‘bird-girl’ shopping. Also, if you’ve driven here, this is a good place to leave your car for the day. It’s secure and there’s plenty of parking.



The station is located at: 303 Martin Luther King, Jr. Blvd. Before you print all this off, please have a look at their website.



Oh no, I'm on to food again! Yessiree!


Try a drive out to Tybee Island. It’s a lovely drive; you’ll see some of the antebellum homes and you can use it as an excuse to try a crab boil or popcorn shrimp from Teeples Seafood Restaurant: 2917 River drive, (the same as State Road SR80). in beautiful downtown Thunderbolt! (there is no downtown!) This little restaurant has been in business since the 1930’s and is famous more as a local shrimping village. The shrimp come directly off the boats in the back of the restaurant! Again, it’s a great way to add a few stone. This is another ‘cheap and cheerful’ place to eat. The cruddier you’re dressed, the more appropriate you are! Hey, try a ‘peel and toss’ bucket ‘o’ shrimp. I would!

Savannah has so much to offer; I could write a book! Do something different! Go on one of the evening ghost tours. Go see Forrest Gump's bench where he offered Mama's homespun logic. Walk through the parks, do the river-front. Try a Paddle Wheeler trip. But most of all have fun!

I hope you fall in love with the people the way I did!

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